After my nutritious and filling breakfast at Beau Rive on Sunday morning, I decided to take a little walk uphill from the hotel along the main road. My intention was to
explore the setting of a different type of accommodation. I tackled another steep climb of about 10 minutes and came upon Sunrise Farm Cottages, which is situated on an organic farm. It is aptly named, and one can easily watch the sunrise from any vantage point! The wood constructed self-catering cottages scattered discreetly around the acreage certainly appealed to me. I may give them a try for a longer stay in the Castle Bruce area sometime!
Also nearby was the trail head to the interior part of Waitukubuli National Trail, Segment 6. I had taken this track some years earlier, but had picked it up in Salibia in the Kalinago Territory, a few kilometers further north.
I`ll have to complete it from this point on my next trip to the east coast! However, this was not a day for any big `walks`.
Shortly after I returned to Beau Rive, I freshened up and then drove away for the day`s planned adventure: Pagua Bay House and its renowned lunch menu. Before I departed, Mark, the proprietor suggested that I take a slightly different route to reach my destination. As I drove through the Kalinago Territory, I followed his instructions and turned left onto Horseback Ridge Road when I saw the sign for it. I drove up the concrete roadway for a distance and then looked for a point where the road forked. There, I turned left again instead of right, which continued as the Horseback Ridge trail and is part of WNT Segment 6. I continued along on the roughened concrete, making several steep descents while glancing briefly at valley vistas in the direction of the Concord Valley. (I did not stop to take pictures as the incline was a little scary for me). After about 10 minutes, I arrived at the Touna Kalinago Heritage Village on the south side of the Pagua River . (This Kalinago Village is well worth a stop to observe the traditional ways of these indigenous people. I had visited there many years ago.) I crossed the river and made a right hand turn back towards the ocean, while passing through the village of Concord, then Hatton Garden and finally Pagua Bay! I quickly turned left (away from the ocean) and I was there!
Pagua Bay House ,Bar and Grill is conveniently located directly across the road from the beach, and is only about 10 minutes away
from Douglas-Charles (formerly Melville Hall) Airport. Of course, I took my walk along the beach first so that my appetite would be adequate for a large lunch. The day was fair and a blustery breeze blew in off of the ocean. I could taste the salt – or perhaps it was sweat! In any case, it did the trick and after half an hour I felt as if I were ready to try out their tempting menu!
Golden apple juice appealed to me again (it is in season) and I started off with a large glass. Jenny, the welcoming waitress reviewed the selections with me and I chose a vegetarian bean burger with the toppings. I was careful to only eat half of the bun because it was necessary to satisfy my sweet tooth. It was completely satiated with a moist melt-in-my-mouth generous slice of New York style cheesecake, complemented with a cup of coffee made to my specifications (mild, not strong!).
Afterwards, I succumbed to a little lie-down in a comfy lounge chair set in the cool blue pool overlooking the ocean.
I gazed around me at the lovely scene for a few moments, but I did feel drowsy and I gave in to that sensation for about half an hour. Before I departed, I chatted amiably with Sheldon Bruno, the engaging General Manager. We discussed his review of the first two nights of the World Creole Music Festival, as he had attended both and would go for the final night after work. I shouldn`t have been surprised when he told me that he lived in Roseau and drove across the island to work – in about 45 minutes. The newly refurbished road through the Central Forest Reserve (named after former President Nicholas Liverpool) certainly makes it easier and quicker to go from one side of the island to the other. I expect this daily trek doesn`t phase Sheldon – he is a very high energy guy with a ready smile and a positive attitude firmly in place. He definitely is an invaluable member of the team at Pagua Bay!
A few raindrops chased me away from this enchanting site. It was now mid-afternoon so I thanked my hosts and leisurely drove for half an hour through the Kalinago Territory back to Beau Rive. It was time to rest for dinner and make plans for my next and last day on the east coast.
Next morning, I tripped along the main road from Beau Rive in the opposite direction of the previous day. I was curious to walk down to Richmond Bay, with its rocky shoreline and river mouth. It had been about 10 years since I had spent part of day lounging in cool river pools with some Dominican friends who have since moved overseas.
I slowly walked through the coastal forest on the public access road. When I reached the end of this right-of-way, a hand-made sign pointed the way to the beach so that no one would accidentally trespass on private property where a hotel is under construction. It was a bit tricky from here-on and I slid through slick mud and stumbled over slippery rocks, but after a few minutes, I was ocean-side.
I admired the views, but did not linger as I would be checking out of Beau Rive shortly and had to head back up the steep slope straight-away. I was in awe of this rugged shoreline and its secluded setting. A great place to meditate!
My time at Beau Rive had passed too quickly as usual. With the knowledge that I would be back sometime soon, I drove away with an idea that I should go down the coast to briefly revisit Rosalie Bay on this lovely day before returning to Roseau and home.
When I reached the T- junction of roads to the west of the Emerald Pool, I turned left and headed south to Rosalie. Road repairs were
underway and I travelled cautiously around broken pavement and potholes. I arrived at Rosalie Bay Resort about 20 minutes later and noticed dark blue-black clouds approaching from the east. I got out of the car and could feel the wind gaining strength. I really just wanted to walk along Rosalie Beach, which is renowned for sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs at certain times of the year. I was just at the end of this season, but I wanted to revisit this area and recall a time when I had watched sea turtle hatchlings run to the ocean to begin their lives underwater. I admire the ongoing dedication of volunteers and staff of the Rosalie Sea Turtle Initiative for their education and conservation efforts about three types of endangered sea turtles who come to this beach to lay their eggs.
I watched those menacing clouds draw near, and I ran back to the restaurant to order a simple take-out meal for the road: hummus, plantain chips and veggies. While I waited, I became increasingly nervous as the wind blasted the building and table settings on the porch flew off in every direction. I picked a few pieces up and then rushed inside as the rain pounded down. I sipped on sorrel juice and when my lunch package arrived, I hurried out to the parking lot in a torrential downpour.
Suffice to say that the squall diminished as I headed north. The sun shone as I climbed the mountainous road and entered the Pond Cassé round-about in the middle of the island en route to Roseau. Half an hour later, I was back in the capital and the rain was about to begin! I wasted no time in driving the additional ten minutes to my home where I unloaded my light luggage and snacked on my take-out from Rosalie Bay Resort. I would have to meet friends Victoria and Neil, who live near Rosalie on another day when the weather promised to be fine. You can read about our previous get together and gastronomic experience at this eco-resort here.
As I reflected on my east coast sojourn, I felt grateful for the pleasant conversations, dramatic scenery, delicious meals and serene settings that I had experienced over the past few days.
Without a doubt, I look forward to my next adventure on the Nature Island with great anticipation!